Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Hiking, Kayaking, and Snorkeling in Southern Thailand

After a couple days in the hut, we decided we were ready to return to modern amenities, and booked a guesthouse down at Karon Beach. But before heading down that way, we drove a few hours north east into the Phang Nga Province to Khao Sok National Park, one of the last remaining remnants of Thailand rainforest - home to gibbons, elephants, tapir, tigers, and the giant Rafflesia flower. We hiked the main waterfall trail, but being the dry season, there wasn't much to see in the way of waterfalls, but that also meant we didn't have to deal with the abundant leeches that plague the trails at other times of the year! We did get to see giant bamboo, huge trees, and numerous species of lizards and birds... but were unsuccessful in locating the giant rare Rafflesia flower, which only blooms for one day. Overall a nice hike, though!

Bamboo dwarfs Brian



We got settled in down at Karon Beach, which was quite a change of scenery from the quiet Mai Khao beach (see pic). The area was teeming with tourists, primarily Russians and Europeans, and we were constantly stalked by tuk-tuks, which look like tiny red pick-up trucks here (see pic). On our way to play some Dino Putt-Putt, I was finally able to snap a picture of the baby elephant street begging (see pic). The animal was surrounded by tourists eager to give money to feed the elephant and have their picture taken - if you look closely, you can see the scared baby elephant in the middle. We also passed a funny sign advertising a performance by "The King of Thai Elvis" (see pic) - I guess he's alive after all! :)

Tuk-Tuks
Karon Beach
Elephant begging
Thai Elvis



The following day we decided to visit Khao Phra Thaeo National Park, which is home to the Gibbon Rehabilitation Center (see pic). Many street beggars here use baby gibbons as a gimmick to get money (they shoot the mothers in the wild and steal the babies), but once the animals reach maturity, they often become violent and are abused and abandoned. This center takes in these gibbons and rehabilitates them so that they can hopefully be returned to the wild again one day. After touring the Gibbon area, we continued on the main trail up to Khao Phra Thaeo waterfall, which wasn't very impressive, but we did see this really cool giant vine! (see pic)


Gibbon
Giant Vine


We got up early the next day for our self-paddle sea kayak caves tour in Phang Nga with Sea Canoe, and headed out on a large boat with about 15 other people. We arrived at the site and set off in our kayak (see pic), passing macaque monkeys in the wild and eagles soaring overhead. When we got to the cave, however, it turned out to be so jammed with other tourists that our kayak got stuck; we had to get out and swim through the pitch-black cave amongst a huge claustrophobic cluster of canoes to finally reach the mangrove lagoon on the other side (see pic). It was an interesting experience though! And we did see some really cool walking fish hanging out on the mangrove branches. (see pic)

Sea Canoe Traffic
Walking Fish



We spent our last day in Phuket on a day-long snorkeling tour on a speed boat out to Phi Phi Island, Maya Bay (where "The Beach" was filmed, see pic), and Monkey Beach. Again, the vast number of tourists everywhere really detracted from the scenery, but we did get to see the caves where locals harvest birds nests for "birds nest" soup (an Asian delicacy), lots of baby jellyfish (and lots of barbs that stung us in the water), and the "wild" monkeys on the beach eating bags of chips and drinking from bottles people had left behind (really sad, actually). We did stop for lunch at a relatively un-touristed beach, though, and were able to do some nice snorkeling there. Overall, to us it seems that Phuket has become so over-touristed that it really takes away from the overall experience of the place. But now we're off to Boracay Island in the Philippines to do some comparisons!

Oh, and just in case you were wondering, the Austin IRS-building plane crash did in fact make the front page of the Thai paper. (see pic)

Monday, February 22, 2010

Sleeping in Huts with Giant Spiders and Other Creepy Crawlies

After almost two weeks in Chiang Mai, Brian and I headed up north to the mountains for a 4-day vegetarian cooking course at PunPun Organic Farm. We saw on the fancy website that we would be sleeping in mud huts, but boy was it a surprise to find that our mud hut (see pic) was a 10-minute walk up the mountain from the farm, had no real windows or doors, no electricity, a twin bed for us to share, a smelly mosquito net with a ton of holes, a squat toilet in the woods with no toilet paper, and an outdoor cold shower. If it hadn't been so cumbersome to get to the place, I think we would have left as soon as we arrived! Oh, and did I mention the 4-inch spider living in the bed?? Gah! The first night we hiked back up to the hut after dinner in the dark with only our headlamps to find that a bird had taken residence in our room; I shrieked and left the hut, while Brian found a random broom to shoo it out with... only it flew directly toward my headlamp, whacking me straight in the forehead! I swore that I was going to leave once the sun came up again.

In the end, we ended up sticking it out for the 4 days, and actually met some pretty cool people. There were two other women in our cooking class, and 20 interns staying at the farm building a new mud kitchen, mostly couples our age also on round-the-world trips. Their huts had electricity and actual windows and doors, though, hehe. We got a guided tour of the farm and gardens, did a couple hikes, learned to make 11 different dishes, and also made our own soymilk and tofu from scratch. And we saw some beautiful sunsets due to all the haze from the burning fields in the area! (see pic)

Roselle fruit
Wing bean
Banana flower
Banana flower salad we made
Cooking class



Making soymilk and tofu:

Step 1: Grinding soybeans
Step 2: Squeezing out the liquid
Step 3: Boiling the soy milk liquid
Step 4: Adding curdling agent
Step 5: Press the curds to make tofu



We returned to Chiang Mai for one more day after the cooking course to do laundry and take a warm shower, and then flew out the next day for a one-week stay at the southern Thailand beaches in Phuket. For our first two nights, we stayed in a $15 rudimentary bamboo beach hut (see pic) on the isolated Mai Khao beach on the northwest side of the island.







It had a great view (see pic) and we really enjoyed the quiet beach, but unfortunately the hut had another resident giant spider (see pic), my foot got attacked by sandflies (see pic), a crab pinched my big toe in the ocean, and the lack of A/C turned out to be little more cumbersome at the beach than in the mountains. We did get to see a herd of buffalo come wandering by on one of our beach walks, which was pretty cool, though! (see pic)

Giant Spider
Sand fly attack
Buffalo on the beach

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Food and Other Oddities from Thailand

Waffle-wrapped banana on a stick








Blocks of solidified frozen chicken blood at the market








Our green curry came with this free roach leg! Yay?








Black-colored mound of grass jello - it's supposed to be good, but I decided to pass. My stomach was still a bit queasy from the roach-leg incident...






Sugar cane machine at the Flower Festival











Festival-stand pizza... gotta love the spray cheese on top!








Pandan-custard bun and taro balloon from the pastry shop - yummy!







Inside of the pandan-custard bun








We've had some trouble finding vegetarian food here, and sure enough, our bag of peanuts from the plane ride wasn't even vegetarian!










Even the wheelchair-bound need scooters - just roll into the side cart and use the controls to drive the motorcycle.










Just a few of the many whitening products on the shelves here... I had a really hard time finding 'non-whitening' facewash!







And last but not least, a typical Thai public toilet, complete with a bucket of water for 'wiping' and flushing. :)

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

It's a Sign!

Here are some funny signs we've seen here in Thailand:

Chicago style... Chinese food??









Hey - it's my team!











"Smarter Choice"--was this 2 marketing slogans ago? or was it 3..or 4?








Gotta watch out for those elderly that refrain from running...








Maybe it's not such a good sign if even the B&B is encouraging you to stay home.








Not sure I want to find out what they serve at this cafe...








Do the angel wings and halo really make this sign any less offensive?











Okay, I know this is a bit juvenile. :)








This sign was on the back of a tuktuk we passed:











Stop! (Don't worry, it's just a suggestion here.)